This trip, wandered down to the House of Seven Gables, past a number of really cute older homes and shops. I was persuaded to stop in at Ye Olde Pepper Companie - the oldest commercial candy store in the US. They had a great selection, and I was sorely tempted to just say "Yes", but restricted myself to a few things, some fudge, a couple of peppermint patties and some chocolate-peanut butter varieties. So much better than mass-produced candy. While I would highly recommend the place for the atmosphere, they do have an online presence and will ship.
We decided to wander back to the car (I decided on a parking garage spot, so the car was shaded) to drop our stuff off so it wouldn't melt in the mid-day sun. On the way we stopped at several different shops, mostly variations on the witchcraft and New Age theme, though highly variable in quality. My favorite things tended to be the bumper stickers ("Cats, Not Kids", how appropriate) though they did have quite a number of items that spoke to my inner Goth. Aside from the historic witch trial tie-in, you can tell there is a very active Wiccan community there. Kind of ironic, the town that became famous because it allowed its paranoia and isolation to explode into a fiesta of false accusations and executions is now home to a plethora of the very people they were trying to hunt down and eliminate. Not that things have entirely changed, there is a church in town that hosts "Holy Happenings" every October to compete with Salem's Haunted Happenings events. It hasn't exactly caught on.
Lunch was Salem BeerWorks. I am not a big beer drinker, so I went for the tasting menu instead of a regulation size beer. Still not a beer person, but even I enjoyed the selections. I give them credit, the menu is definite pub food, but well executed. I particularly liked the unexpectedness of the potato, cheese and bacon spring rolls. Sort of like a twice-baked potato in a spring roll shell. I also compliment them on making Pepsi tolerable. When I made a face at the "Is Pepsi ok" query, the server suggested she add an extra spritz of seltzer to cut the sweetness. Not exactly coke, but tolerable. I'll have to remember that trick for later.
Last stop in town was the Peabody-Essex museum, which is great. Not "great for a little town" great, but really fabulous. The architecture is very light and airy and the collections are extremely well curated. They are currently hosting a selection of Ansel Adams work that is fabulous. Unlike his more famous mountain west photographs, this one focused on his pictures of water. Very unusual, and absolutely stunning. The museum also has a Chinese house, moved here in the 1980s I think, that you can tour. It was really interesting to see the architecture, and to hear the history on the audio tour. The upstairs is getting pretty rickety, though, so definitely watch your step there.
About that parking garage - cost to park for basically the entire day in a garage in the middle of town: $1.25. Cheaper than a meter, and much more convenient. One note on getting to and from Salem, even though it sounds easy (just take 128 to 114), what that doesn't tell you is that 114 takes all sorts of turns and jogs. I know most of the streets and routes in Massachusetts follow old cow paths and such, but whatever cow blazed this trail was very, very drunk. My GPS (a TomTom) kept up with all the turns, so recommend you either go with a native or bring a digital navigator.
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